Some places cannot be described in words — they have to be experienced. Cricova is one of them. It is not simply a winery, and it is certainly not your average tourist attraction. It is an entire subterranean world hidden beneath a quiet suburb of Chișinău, a world where history, geology, and winemaking have merged into something wholly unique. Presidents and rock musicians come here, diplomats and newlyweds, thrill-seekers and people who simply want to understand what authentic Moldovan wine actually tastes like. Nobody leaves disappointed.
Cricova is not just a landmark of Moldova. It is the country’s calling card, its pride, its living legend. If you are in Chișinău — whether you have just arrived as a tourist or have lived here for years — skipping Cricova means missing something genuinely extraordinary.
The History of Cricova: From Limestone Quarry to World Legend
The story of Cricova begins long before the first bottle of wine was stored here. Several centuries ago, local residents quarried the famous Moldovan limestone — a soft yet durable shell rock used throughout the region to build houses, churches, and roads. As the decades passed, the quarries grew deeper and wider, and by the mid-twentieth century an extensive network of tunnels and grottos had formed beneath the village of Cricova, stretching for over 120 kilometres in total.
In the 1950s, Soviet planners took notice of these underground spaces. A constant temperature of 12–14 degrees Celsius, high humidity, no vibration, no light — ideal conditions for wine storage. In 1952 the decision was made to establish one of the largest underground wine facilities in the world. Work on fitting out the tunnels, laying railway tracks, and building production infrastructure took several years, and by the mid-1950s Cricova was already receiving its first shipments of wine.
Cricova quickly acquired the status of a strategic Soviet facility. The finest wines were brought here not only from Moldova but from other Soviet republics as well. The collection grew, the tunnels expanded, and the fame of the “underground wine city” spread across the entire USSR. After the Soviet collapse, Cricova went through a difficult period of privatisation and restructuring, but it preserved both its traditions and its extraordinary collection.
Today Cricova S.A. is one of Moldova’s leading wineries and one of the most visited tourist attractions in the country. Hundreds of thousands of guests from around the world come here every year.
Cricova Today: Key Facts and Figures
The scale of Cricova impresses even those who have read about it beforehand. A few key numbers help put things in perspective:
- Total tunnel length exceeds 120 kilometres, of which approximately 8 kilometres are open to visitors.
- The collection holds several million bottles — estimates range from 1.25 to 1.5 million storage units, including exclusive vintages.
- The main tunnels run between 30 and 80 metres below the surface.
- Air temperature remains a constant 12–14°C year-round, regardless of the season outside.
- Cricova is listed in the Guinness World Records as one of the largest underground wine cellars on earth.
- The oldest bottles in the collection date back to 1902.
Beyond storage, Cricova is a fully operational production facility. Sparkling wines are made here using the traditional méthode champenoise, cognacs are aged, and still wines are bottled. Part of the production process is open to visitors, depending on the tour package chosen.
Famous Guests: From Gagarin to Merkel
One of the most compelling chapters in Cricova’s history is its roster of celebrated visitors. Over the decades, hundreds of well-known figures have passed through these tunnels, and many have left a tangible mark. In the underground galleries there are dedicated sections where the private collections of VIP guests are kept under lock and key.
It is said that Yuri Gagarin, who visited Moldova in 1966, was so impressed by Cricova that he left part of his personal wine stock here. Vladimir Putin, during an official visit to Moldova, also descended into the underground city — and according to Moldovan media, his personal collection at Cricova ran to several thousand bottles. Other distinguished guests include Angela Merkel, Jacques Chirac, Gerhard Schröder, Bill Clinton, and scores of other world leaders.
Particularly worth mentioning is the collection of German Formula 1 champion Michael Schumacher — reportedly one of the largest private collections in the Cricova cellars. Rock musicians, Hollywood actors, Forbes-list billionaires — the guest list at Cricova reads like the society pages of a global newspaper.
This “star-studded” history is not merely a marketing gimmick. It reflects Cricova’s genuine standing as a place worthy of the most discerning palates. And it is precisely this feeling — that you are somewhere special, somewhere chosen — that stays with every guest from the moment they enter the tunnel.
How to Get from Chișinău to Cricova
Cricova lies about 15 kilometres north of central Chișinău, in the village of the same name. You can get there in several ways, depending on your budget, preferences, and the size of your group.
By Rental Car — The Most Flexible Option
If you have come to Moldova as a tourist and want maximum freedom when planning your itinerary, renting a car is the smartest choice. From the city centre to Cricova takes around 20–25 minutes without traffic. The route is straightforward: head north towards the village of Cricova via Strada Moscovei or through the Râșcanovca district, following your GPS to the address: strada Ungureanu 1, Cricova.
The advantages of a hire car are obvious: you are free from public transport timetables, and you can include Cricova as part of a broader day trip — for instance, pairing it with a visit to Old Orhei or other wineries along the way. If you plan to taste wines seriously, it makes sense to designate a non-drinking driver or arrange a taxi back to the city.
Cars can be rented in Chișinău in advance through local rental company websites, or on arrival at the airport and in the city centre. A compact car starts from around 25–35 euros per day, which when spread across multiple attractions makes it considerably more economical than taxis or organised tours.
By Taxi or Ride-Hailing App
The simplest option is to book a taxi through one of the popular apps in Chișinău: Bolt, inDrive, or local services. The journey from the city centre takes 20–30 minutes and costs roughly 80–150 Moldovan lei one way, depending on the tariff and time of day.
One important detail: arrange with the driver in advance whether they are willing to wait during the tour. Alternatively, book a return taxi after the visit ends — but bear in mind that mobile signal is absent underground and can be patchy at the surface.
By Minibus — The Budget-Friendly Route
Scheduled minibuses (rutiere) run from Chișinău to the village of Cricova. Departures are from the central bus station on Strada Ismail (Autogara Centrală) or from stops in the Râșcanovca area. The fare is very affordable — just a few lei. Check the current timetable before you travel, as schedules can change.
This option suits independent travellers who do not mind spending a little extra time on logistics. From the village stop to the Cricova entrance you will need to walk about 10–15 minutes or take a local taxi for the last stretch.
On an Organised Tour
Numerous travel agencies in Chișinău offer day trips to Cricova — either as a standalone excursion or combined with other sights. Such tours typically include coach transfer, a guide, and sometimes lunch. Prices range from 30 to 80 euros per person depending on the programme.
An organised tour takes care of all the logistical questions and lets you taste wines freely without worrying about driving afterwards.
Practical Information: Opening Hours, Booking, Prices
Before heading to Cricova, a few practical details are worth knowing. The winery welcomes visitors daily, but advance booking is mandatory — especially during the high tourist season from May to October. This is not a suggestion but a requirement: without a reservation you may simply be turned away at the gate.
Bookings can be made on the official Cricova website (cricova.md) or by phone. You can also select your preferred tour language there — Romanian, Russian, English, German, French, and several others are available.
Tours depart several times a day, generally in the morning and afternoon. Confirm the exact schedule before your visit, as it varies by season and availability.
Pricing depends on the chosen programme. A standard tour of the tunnels with a tasting of several wines costs from around 15–20 euros per person. Extended programmes with premium wine tastings, a production tour, and lunch can run considerably higher — up to 80–100 euros or more. Group discounts are available.
What Awaits You Inside: A Detailed Tour Guide
The Cricova experience begins even before you enter the tunnel. You are greeted at the reception area, briefed on the rules, and given an overview of the complex’s history. Photography is permitted — and you will quickly realise there is no shortage of things to photograph.
Entering the Underground City
The first few seconds inside the tunnel are a genuine moment of wonder. You find yourself in a spacious, well-lit corridor along which purpose-built electric vehicles or minivans ferry visitors through the labyrinth. The tunnels are wide enough for two vehicles to pass — this is no narrow cave, but a proper underground street. The temperature change is immediate: in summer it feels refreshingly cool, in winter almost warm. The air is unusual — dense, carrying a faint scent of limestone and wine.
As you go deeper, the tunnels branch out into a true maze. Signs on the walls name the “streets”: there is Champagne Street, Cabernet Street, Feteasca Square. Cricova is genuinely organised like a city — with its own place names, its own spatial logic, and even its own distinct “neighbourhoods”.
The Wine Halls: Kilometres of History
The centrepiece of Cricova is the seemingly endless rows of racks and stacked bottles disappearing into the darkness. This is not a theatrical installation — millions of bottles are actually stored here, each in perfect maturing conditions. Your guide will explain how the wines are arranged, why some bottles lie horizontal while others rest in wooden crates, and what the markings on the racks mean.
A particularly striking moment is the old wine hall. Behind special iron grilles, bottles from 1902 are kept. Dusty, with faded labels, they are a reminder that wine can outlast entire historical eras. Some of these bottles are valued at thousands of dollars apiece. You cannot touch them — only look, and reflect on everything they have survived: revolutions, wars, the fall of empires.
Cognac Reserves and Sparkling Wines
Cricova is not only about still wines. The facility produces cognacs and sparkling wines, both of which age in the underground tunnels. In the cognac section you will see rows of oak barrels in which the amber spirit matures slowly. The smell here is something else — a blend of wood, alcohol, and something almost impossible to name.
The sparkling wine section deserves a chapter of its own. Cricova produces its sparkling wines by the traditional méthode champenoise, with secondary fermentation in the bottle. You can see riddling racks with bottles angled so that sediment collects at the neck. The manual riddling process — the gradual daily rotation of each bottle — has been partially preserved to this day.
The Tasting Rooms
The highlight of any Cricova excursion is the tasting. Depending on your programme, you will be offered between 3–4 and 8–10 wines, including still, sparkling, and possibly cognac. The tasting rooms are appointed with genuine style — heavy tables, comfortable chairs, elegant glassware. Some halls are decorated with the crests of famous guests or with works of art.
A guide or sommelier will walk you through each wine, explaining the grape variety, harvest year, ageing specifics, and recommended food pairing. Moldovan wines — especially those made from indigenous varieties such as Fetească Albă, Fetească Neagră, and Rară Neagră — deserve a conversation of their own, and a knowledgeable guide will make sure they get one.
Tastings are usually accompanied by cheeses, bread, and other snacks. Extended programmes include a full meal featuring Moldovan staples — mămăligă, brânză, cured meats.
VIP Halls and Named Collections
If you have booked an extended programme, you may be shown the VIP sections — halls where the personal collections of famous guests are stored. Seeing a section bearing the name of a world leader or global celebrity is a particular thrill, the kind of “wow moment” you will find yourself recounting to friends for years.
What to Buy at Cricova: Wines and Souvenirs
At the exit from the tour zone there is a Cricova boutique shop. The selection is broad: from affordable everyday bottles to collectible vintages with years or decades of ageing. Prices are generally better than in Chișinău supermarkets, particularly for exclusive labels.
What is worth buying as a gift or souvenir:
- Cricova Classique or Prestige sparkling wines — classics that capture the winery’s character well.
- Aged Cricova cognac — a worthy rival to French labels at a considerably more accessible price.
- Wines from indigenous Moldovan varieties — Fetească Neagră, Rară Neagră — something you simply will not find anywhere else.
- Branded gift sets — an excellent choice for anyone looking for a memorable souvenir from Moldova.
Keep in mind that alcohol import limits vary by country — check the current allowances for your destination before loading up your suitcase.
Tips for a Perfect Visit to Cricova
A few practical recommendations to make your visit as comfortable and memorable as possible:
- Dress in layers. Tunnel temperature stays around 12–14°C all year. In summer, the contrast with the outside air can be dramatic. A light jacket or sweater is essential.
- Book in advance. Especially on weekends and during peak season (June–September). At busy times, spots on popular tours fill up days ahead.
- Arrive on an empty-ish stomach. If your programme includes a tasting, avoid a heavy meal beforehand — it makes a real difference to how you experience the wines and food pairings.
- Plan your return transport. If you intend a proper tasting, arrange your ride back to Chișinău in advance — taxis from Cricova are best booked ahead of time.
- Bring some cash. Cards are accepted, but having lei or euros on hand never hurts.
- Choose your tour language. Tours run in multiple languages, including English. Confirm which language your group will be in when booking.
- Allow plenty of time. A standard tour takes about 1.5–2 hours; extended programmes with lunch run up to 3–4 hours. Do not schedule anything too tightly afterwards.
Cricova and Moldova’s Other Wineries: Planning Your Route
If wine tourism is your passion, Cricova is only the beginning. Moldova is home to a constellation of outstanding wineries, each offering its own distinct experience.
Within a few dozen kilometres of Chișinău you will find Château Vartely, Purcari, and Mileștii Mici — the latter also claims the title of the world’s largest underground wine cellar by bottle count and holds its own Guinness World Record. The “Chișinău — Cricova — Mileștii Mici” circuit is the classic combination for those who want to experience two iconic underground cellars in a single day.
For a multi-winery itinerary, renting a car goes from convenient to practically essential — public transport between villages is infrequent, and a full-day taxi will cost more than a hire car for the same period.
Visiting Cricova Off-Season: The Case for a Winter Trip
Most tourists visit Cricova in summer or autumn, during the harvest season. But a winter visit has its own particular charm. For one thing, fewer people — groups are smaller, and the guide has more time for each guest. For another, the contrast between the freezing December air outside and the stable warmth of the tunnels creates an almost otherworldly sensation. And the pre-New Year period is a perfectly good reason to buy a bottle of sparkling wine straight from the source.
In winter, some agencies offer lower excursion prices and availability is wider. If you happen to be in Chișinău during the colder months, do not dismiss a visit to Cricova on the grounds that it is “off-season” — underground, seasons simply do not exist.
Cricova as a Venue for Special Events
Few people realise that Cricova is not only a tourist attraction but also an event venue. Corporate dinners, business partner tastings, romantic evenings for couples, and even wedding receptions are held here regularly. The atmosphere of the underground halls — stone vaulting, soft lighting, the scent of ageing wine — provides an unmatched backdrop for any celebration.
If you are looking for an unconventional setting for a corporate gathering or a private party, contact the Cricova events team directly. They offer several formats: from an intimate dinner for ten guests to a banquet for several hundred.
Why Cricova Is a Must-See in Moldova
If pressed to say briefly why Cricova deserves a place on every Moldovan itinerary, it would come down to this: it is a place where history intersects with geography, and where tradition meets a genuinely unique natural environment. It is a chance to encounter winemaking not as a production process but as a culture — layered, centuries-deep, and yet alive, dynamic, and still evolving.
Cricova is also proof that a small country can create something of genuine world-class significance. An underground city that has hosted presidents and cosmonauts, preserves wines from the early twentieth century, and welcomes hundreds of thousands of visitors each year — this is not a provincial curiosity but a real landmark on the European tourism map.
Chișinău is a convenient base for exploring Moldova. And Cricova is the perfect place to start that exploration. Go there on your first free day, bring a warm jacket and an open mind, and let the underground wine city tell you its story — over a glass of something truly good.